We’ve gone virtual! With the ongoing public health emergency, it’s not responsible to gather at the field https://ed-danmark.com/koeb-…ra-online/. So we’re getting together on video chat!
The password is the gate combination on the back of your membership card. If you’re a potential new member or lost your membership card, use the Contact Us Page on the website and ask for a special guest link to join the meeting.
We welcome all RC flyers of all skill levels!
Thank you Charlie for a great discussion on paint preparation, formulation, processes, protections, etc!
Below are some notes that I took during the discussion – any errors are mine, but all processes should be tested before using on your new project!
Use brake cleaner to clear out aerosol tips – after painting, use the brake cleaner straw to spray through nozzle and clean out before putting tip away. Clogged nozzle can be cleaned with soaking in acetone then brake cleaner to blow out.
Painting on Monokote (Ultracote, Sigkote, etc) – alcohol wipe, steel wool roughing pass, tack cloth then use most any spray paint. Rustoleum works great, just let it sit for many days – 30 for full final cure. Acrylic sprays work fine too – sprayed house paints are a great way to get color mixes just right.
Fiberglass – 3/4 ounce is the heaviest weave to use. After epoxy installation, prime & sand & repeat many times – don’t use lacquer primers, everything peels off them. Use same formula primer & paint for best results. Avoid second coat of epoxy – too heavy. Lightweight spackle works for some too, but primer and sand is best.
Don’t do lacquer over enamel, and don’t do anything over lacquer.
1/2 ounce fiberglass on 40-60 size planes, 3/4 on the bigger stuff up to giant scale
Lowest tack masking tape – stick on tshirt or cabinet door. – full cure on the paint helps more – solvent based paints take longer than water based which may only take 3 or 4 days in dry conditions
When masking, spray away from the masking crack very lightly – let it set up to seal the crack – then do the second coat.
We’ve gone virtual! With the ongoing public health emergency, it’s not responsible to gather at the field https://ed-danmark.com/koeb-…ra-online/. So we’re getting together on video chat!
Come join us for a Zoom video workshop chat at Join Zoom Meeting
https://us02web.zoom.us/j/4690492803
Meeting ID: 469 049 2803
The password is the gate combination on the back of your membership card. If you’re a potential new member or lost your membership card, use the Contact Us Page on the website and ask for a special guest link to join the meeting.
We welcome all RC flyers of all skill levels!
Thank you Charlie for a great discussion on paint preparation, formulation, processes, protections, etc!
Below are some notes that I took during the discussion – any errors are mine, but all processes should be tested before using on your new project!
Use brake cleaner to clear out aerosol tips – after painting, use the brake cleaner straw to spray through nozzle and clean out before putting tip away. Clogged nozzle can be cleaned with soaking in acetone then brake cleaner to blow out.
Painting on Monokote (Ultracote, Sigkote, etc) – alcohol wipe, steel wool roughing pass, tack cloth then use most any spray paint. Rustoleum works great, just let it sit for many days – 30 for full final cure. Acrylic sprays work fine too – sprayed house paints are a great way to get color mixes just right.
Fiberglass – 3/4 ounce is the heaviest weave to use. After epoxy installation, prime & sand & repeat many times – don’t use lacquer primers, everything peels off them. Use same formula primer & paint for best results. Avoid second coat of epoxy – too heavy. Lightweight spackle works for some too, but primer and sand is best.
Don’t do lacquer over enamel, and don’t do anything over lacquer.
1/2 ounce fiberglass on 40-60 size planes, 3/4 on the bigger stuff up to giant scale
Lowest tack masking tape – stick on tshirt or cabinet door. – full cure on the paint helps more – solvent based paints take longer than water based which may only take 3 or 4 days in dry conditions
When masking, spray away from the masking crack very lightly – let it set up to seal the crack – then do the second coat.
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